Amour & Evening Dress





Fondazione Roberto Capucci, 1985 Army National Guard Armory New York,
Raw silk black & white, and red © Photo: Gianluca Baronchelli / Musei Provinciali di Gorizia


The genesis of the Armour & Gown exhibition lies in another exhibition. In 1991, an unforgettable, indeed dazzling, tournament was staged at the Hofburg in Vienna under the title of Gowns as Armour. Armour from the Hofburg Collection of Arms and Armour, the world's greatest display of this exquisite form of cultural achievement, though now largely viewed as taboo, jousted with gowns designed by Roberto Capucci, a leading Italian couturier. This project is intended as homage to the Vienna presentation, but goes beyond it in dramatics and dimension. These exclusive exhibits – more than 60 suits of armour and 12 gowns as well as numerous separate parts such as helmets, breastplates, cuirasses, cuisses and greaves, halberds and lances fill the large hall and the entire gallery and stairs

Richly ornamented metal suits
Here, Jean Tinguely, kineticist and extraordinarily gifted amateur who conjured with waste materials and scrap metal, a self-proclaimed anarchist and closet militarist, encounters the golden age of this metier, the handicraft of armour-making. "Armourer" was the name for these masters and metal artists, who, from their forges in Augsburg and Nuremberg, Milan and Brescia, supplied the European armies and courts. The selection of armour from the world of chivalric culture that stretched from westernmost Europe through Turkey, India and Tibet to Japan may contain only objects from the Habsburg Empire and Switzerland, but it is an adequate reflection of a turbulent epoch of medieval history. Most of the suits of armour on display were made between 1485 and 1570 and come from the last two active medieval armouries in Europe, namely Graz in Styria, which borders on the territories of the Turkish invaders, and Solothurn. Lansquenets, "knaves" and hussars from the Graz collections are joined by a Solothurn "delegation" to evoke the battles of Morgarten, Sempach and Näfels. The transition from battlefield to tournament after 1500 during the reign of Emperor Maximilian I (1459-1519), "The Last Knight", is illustrated by decorated fluted suits of armour from Graz and, especially, by twelve exceptional examples of "tailored", richly ornamented metal suits for emperors, archdukes and landgraves from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna.
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